This section is for helpful information on choosing arrows, setting up your bow, and getting the most out of your set up.
Omega Carbon Arrow Chart
The chart below is a quick reference to give you a rough idea what arrow will work for your bow. Start at the left side and find your bow weight with a 125 gr tip. Follow this over to correspond with your arrow length. That is the approximate arrow size. If you don't use 125 gr tips, for every 25 grains MORE in point weight that you shoot, ADD 3# to your bow weight when referencing the chart. For every 25 grains LESS in tip weight, SUBTRACT 3#. For example, if I'm shooting a 40# Omega and want a 200 gr tip, I would reference the chart for 52#, instead of 40#. This is why the chart goes up higher in weight than I actually offer bows. Keep in mind, Omegas and carbons are fairly forgiving, and "close counts" when buying raw shafts. Final tuning is up to you and your own personal shot style. Don't be afraid to try what you have before buying new arrows!
Shooting style really affects which arrow will work for you. As the old saying goes, your mileage may vary!
Older Omega Natives are cut 1/8" out of center, so please adjust by checking the chart as if your bow was 5# lighter. For example, if your bow is 50#, reference the chart for 45# instead, and it might serve best to also err on the lighter end of the spine range.
|Draw w/ 125gr||27" Arrow||28" Arrow||29" Arrow||30" Arrow||31" Arrow||32" Arrow|
For wooden arrows, start with your bow weight plus 5#. This is just a general consensus, and may vary between shooters from +/-0# to +10#. Start long and shorten as necessary.
For every extra inch over 28", add 5#. For every inch shorter than 28", subtract 5#. For every extra 35 gr tip weight above 125 gr, add 5#. For every 35 gr tip weight under 125 gr subtract 5#.
So let's take a 45# at 27" Omega and you want a 29" wooden arrow with a 165 gr tip, you'll do the following:
45-50 starting with draw weight
+ 5 for the average Omega spine preference
+ 5 for the extra length over 28"
+ 5 for the extra 40 gr tip over 125 gr
= 60-65 spine wooden arrow for your Omega.
This is just a general figure, and you will of course have to tune it for your own personal set up, but it should get you awfully close!
Omegas are built to last indefinitely, but anything will fail if improperly cared for over time. You should always use a properly designed bow stringer, and never leave a strung bow exposed to intense heat or moisture, especially for long periods. Bows that have had the finish marred or scraped should be touched up with urethane or sent back for refinishing. With proper care your Omega should last for generations!
For those sensitive to noise or vibration, this is a cheap alternative to LimbSavers. They're easy to add or remove and do not harm the finish. Simply wrap the limb with sections of bike inner tube and wrap with tape. No need to apply tape to the limb, as the rubber provides sufficient friction to keep from moving.
A well tuned set up is the most efficient set up, providing the best accuracy and penetration. It should be noted that nocks that are too tight on the string, using plastic vanes rather than feathers, using only one nocking point on the string, or poor shooting form can all result in inconsistent tuning results. If you are unable to form a group, look to these issues first.
Shoot at whatever distance you know you can consistently produce a defined group. New shooters should start around ten yards and move back as they progress. The more consistent you are, the better you can group. The the better you can group, the better you can tune.
Start with fletched arrows and then double check afterwards with either a bare shaft (no feathers) or a broadhead tipped arrows (with feathers). If the bare shaft or broadhead arrow groups with your fletched arrows in the center, you are tuned.
The following is for right handed shooters. Left hand shooters just flip it.
Shoot a group at the center. If you group LEFT the arrow is STIFF. If you group RIGHT the arrow is WEAK. Be careful, inconsistent groups or erratic flight can indicate a false sign. Also, clothing contact or form issues can also manifest when tuning. Try the best you can and revisit it later if you have issues.
For a STIFF arrow you can: raise the brace height, slide your silencers down the string away from the center serving (towards the nocks), trim your silencers shorter, add point weight, or switch the strike plate out for one thinner and/or softer.
For a WEAK arrow you can: lower the brace height, move your silencers in towards the center serving, add more silencers, lighten point weight, shorten the arrow, or switch the strike plate out for a thicker and/or stiffer material.
Adjust a bit at a time until you can group along the center line, even if your groups are high or low.
Vertical issues are adjusted with the nock set height. Use two nocking points for a nock set.Using a single nock point can cause inconsistencies. If your groups are high, raise the nock set. If your groups are low, lower the nock set.
If the arrow is flying low and porpoising up and down, especially if you shoot three under, your nocking point is actually too low and the tail of the arrow is kicking off the shelf. Raise the nocking point. If the arrow is flying low but straight, then you can lower the nocking point to bring it up- or just leave it. Here, so long as arrow flight is good you can compensate your aim, or use an extra high nocking point to make your sight picture smaller.
I know this is a very short primer, but I hope it helps. If you have any issues, please feel free to email me!
Draw Weight and Arrow Design
When you're starting, it often comes up: how much bow? Here are a couple ways to can check to see whether the bow is too much for you or not.
First, if you've never shot a bow before, it's inadvisable to start over 40# at your draw. You will learn much faster and be ready to hunt much sooner. Now, if you're coming from a compound a good formula would be to go around 60% of your current comfortable draw weight. So a fellow shooting a 65# compound would be looking for a bow around 40#, which is plenty to hunt deer. Starting light, as long as it's legal, is never a bad idea.
Luckily, bows in the 40# range aren't just for getting started, they are used by serious hunters every year to bag everything from white tail bucks to hogs and big elk! A well tuned carbon arrow tipped with a razor sharp two blade broadhead like the Magnus Stinger, Simmons Shark, Muzzy Phantom, or Zwickey will blow through the lungs of a big bodied buck! Many states (like my home state of PA) allow bows in the 35-40# range but always check your local regulations. Some states require no minimum draw weight, though erring on the side of caution with a 35+# draw weight is often safest.
A little reference as far as actual delivered power: the average 40# Omega should deliver around 30 ft-lbs of KE. This is the same power of a straight-limb longbow or low end recurve in the 50+# range!
The effectiveness of the bow comes down to the arrow, and nothing can top a well placed, perfectly tuned shaft. Keep shots to within your "slam dunk" range. Though all materials can offer excellent penetration, small diameter carbons and lean two-blade cut on contact broadheads will typically offer the best performance. Whether the arrow is light and fast, or heavy and slow, make sure it is flying straight and that the broad head is razor sharp!
Putting an arrow right into the heart of an animal, real of foam, or pounding the bull's eye time and time again, can be a deeply satisfying feeling. How can you get to that point though? Here are a few tips that really helped me, to where I don't feel handicapped filling the freezer with a longbow:
1. Use as much bow as you can handle, but NEVER too much. I got into heavy bows in a big way years ago, but it wasn't until I dropped down to 40-50# that I found my accuracy went way up. Being able to anchor comfortably and hold for a second can be invaluable, and has payed off for me in the woods on both big and small game, as well as on targets.
2. Slow down and enjoy the shot sequence. Shooting quickly can be helpful on moving targets or spooky game like squirrels or birds, but it builds a bad habit of skipping steps in your shot sequence which leads to target panic. Develop a shot sequence of your own and use it on every shot, every time.
3. Point that arrow! I switched from being a long-time split finger to three under. Using three under and a high anchor or fixed crawl, it makes it easy to just point the arrow. Whether aiming or shooting instinctively, this can make it easier to make an accurate shot under pressure, especially at unknown distances or from odd angles.
4. Function follows FORM. Proper shooting form is invaluable. Blank bale practice can help create muscle memory, and focusing on making every shot perfectly alike will pay off in the long run. I make sure every shot is relaxed, that the bow is supported by proper bone alignment, and that I draw my arm in line with the arrow using my back, not my arms. While it doesn't matter what position the lower body is in, or what angle the upper body is in, anchor and alignment should not change. If it does, the shot becomes a gamble.
No matter how you shoot, different methods of practice can all enhance and improve your success. Occasionally checking your shooting on a scoring face will help you monitor your progress and can help work on weaknesses in your consistency. Shooting 3D is an excellent way to practice at unknown distances, as is stump shooting or roving. Shooting at a blank bale helps build muscle memory, and shooting long range is an excellent way to diagnose form issues. Moving targets help keep you relaxed. Ultimately, the best advice I can offer is to have fun!